Even Destroyers Have A Price

It was about birds, now it's about azimuth stings

1.31.2007

Say G'day!

Got into Australia on Monday morning, and since then I've basically been in a sense of constant awe. This is already one of the most unbelievable experiences of my life. But why don't we start a bit earlier.

Arriving at the gate in LA, I looked around to see if I could find other SFS kids, after all this was the group flight that most of us were supposed to be on. There were a few other college-aged kids, but none of them looked like the type to be heading off into the wilderness for a few months, but there were some open seats, so I sat with them anyways and opened up a book, scoping out the gate area every now and then to check out any new arrivals. Two hours went by. Finally, one of the kids piped, “Hey, are you SFS?” All six of us looked up at each other. Hah. Well, that turned out pretty well.

The flight into Cairns, the nearest city, was just stunning. We dropped below the clouds, and suddenly we were right over the Great Barrier Reef, and looking down we could see the reef's expansive beds of coral even from our high altitude, an unbelievable sight to behold. Wrestling our eyes upwards, we looked towards shore and saw pristine beaches straight up against lush mangrove forests, sloping up to a range of cloud-topped mountains. It kind of looked like one of those Corona Light beer commercials replete with the hammocks and everything, or like a scene from the latest swanky James Bond film. We hadn't even landed yet, but all of us agreed: this was already incredible.

So we were met at the airport by two of the Centre's staff, and began the drive out through suffocating heat. It's been a mild winter at home, but I'd forgotten that you could get this hot and humid sometimes. We drove through the city and then turned south on the highway, leaving the buildings behind and passing through vast fields of sugarcane on the coastal plain. One more turn, and we were on the Gilles highway, working our way up into the mountains. It started to pour down rain as we ascended, and so we labored through dozens of switchbacks and slope-hugging curves, rain pelting the windows, the silhouettes of a great forest in the distance. We continued on for almost two hours, and at one point the van slowed on the road a bit. Is there traffic ahead, or an animal in the road? No, because WE VEERED OFF THE ROAD STRAIGHT INTO A WALL OF TREES before suddenly finding the van hurtling through the thickets on a narrow road completely concealed from the highway, thick rainforest flying by the windows as we charged on with reckless abandon. None of us could stop laughing at the surrealness of the situation. We were in the rainforest now, for real!!! But more stunning to us, we had, seriously, veered STRAIGHT OFF THE HIGHWAY, INTO A WALL OF TREES. My life may have flashed before my eyes, and I may have said some goodbyes to loved ones, haha. To call that move a surprise would be a great, great understatement. I almost had a heart attack. Seriously, we veered off the road. Into a wall of trees. I cannot emphasize how terrifying this was, and how mind-blowing it was to suddenly find ourselves on a small path in the rainforest. It's not like we slowed to a stop, flicked on the turn signal, waited a few moments, and then slowly turned into the wall of trees. We just veered off the road, into a wall of trees. Three days later, I think the adrenaline is still pumping.

The School for Field Studies' Centre for Rainforest Studies, where I'll be spending the next three months, is just gorgeous. It really is right in the heart of the rainforest. Walking from our spacious cabins towards the main building for dinner, I couldn't help but notice dozens of birds flying between the trees, and every single one of them was a new species. My binoculars have been on fire the past few days, and with every new bird, I just cannot contain my excitement. My classmates probably think I'm somewhat crazy. Well, I probably am, I think that's pretty clear at this point. But hey, there's two more avid birders here too! So I'm not even the only crazy one!

Oh, and the bathrooms are not attached to the cabins, they're a good walk down the trail, so speaking of unique experiences, I woke at 5 yesterday morning to get an early shower and find some birds at sunrise. So I headed down for my shower, flashlight in hand because it was still pitch black outside. The cicadas were so loud that it sounded like a fire alarm, nocturnal frogs, geckos, and other mysterious creatures screamed every few moments, and large animals trampled somewhere in the underbrush. Imagine hearing all that in pitch black darkness, walking down a muddy trail in the middle of the tropical rainforest. All at once, it was terrifying, surreal, and absolutely beautiful. Later, I headed for the main building, still under the cover of darkness, and the trail from my cabin to the building is a hairline trail on the side of a hill, with a precipitous drop to the left. I did this again under total darkness, with the birds beginning to wake and screaming at the arriving dawn. When the sun finally did rise, and I worked my way through dozens of new species flashing before my eyes every minute, and it was absolutely magical.

I'm not even going to try and give a chronological summary of what's been going on, so here's just a few scattered highlights from the past few days.

We went on a 6 km hike this afternoon in our free time, so I ran to my cabin to grab my hiking books. Sprinting down narrow rainforest trails, I seriously felt like Indiana Jones or something. It's so much fun.

I haven't actually heard anybody say “G'day, mate!” I've heard 'mate' quite a bit; I think I've actually heard it from every native Australian I've encountered (including the Customs officer at Immigration, which was pretty sweet). However, I've only heard G'day once, from the pilot on our flight from Brisbane to Cairns. Oh, and also my calling card is from a company called Say G'day! (the exclamation point is part of the name, but it also signifies my excitement, how convenient!) .The Centre's phone does not accept incoming calls, but I can call people very very cheaply, so lemme know if you wanna talk! The only other interesting piece of lingo I've picked up is 'no wuckers', which is roughly analogous to 'no worries', which Australians use quite a bit as well.

Professor Hiebert Burch was right, there are so..many...leeches. The group went on the property's 2 km-long Site Trail, and by the end all of us had picked off about twenty leeches or so. The best thing about leeches is that while they're feeding on your blood, they introduce anticoagulants to stop it from clotting, so if a leech has fully engorged itself, the bleeding just will not stop for so, so long. People have been bitten, and there's been blood everywhere...man, it's not pleasant, haha. Fortunately I haven't gotten to that stage yet, I've managed to pick off all the leeches that have attached to me, but I'm sure it's only a matter of time before I provide a blood meal for a hungry leech. I can't wait! Actually, I think I can, hah.

One of my cabinmates spent a few weeks in the Amazonian rainforest in Brazil last month, and he's told us that we should expect our clothes to either be dry, or to be clean, but not both. So far, that seems completely accurate.

One of the girls brought a banjo from home. Yeah. We've been rockin' it pretty hard.

I'll see if I can remember more later. But so far anyways, this has been plain amazing. Then again, I haven't started classes yet, and looking at the syllabus, this may actually be quite intensive, so I won't have as much time to explore for myself. But if the classes are quality enough, I won't have any complaints about that. And that's it for now. I have a few photos on my camera, but I haven't had time to move them onto my computer yet, but I'll definitely post some later. Until then, I hope everyone else is doing well! Rock on.

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1.30.2007

Australian Birdlist

This is the FINAL list of all the birds I saw in Australia, from 29 Jan - 13 May 2007.

All common names and taxonomic order taken from: Gill, F. and M.Wright. 2006. Birds of the World: Recommended English Names. Princeton NJ: Princeton University Press. In some instances where the Gill and Wright recommendation differed significantly from the names commonly found in Australian field guides, I have indicated the Australian name in parentheses.


  1. Southern Cassowary
  2. Emu
  3. Australian Brushturkey
  4. Scrubfowl (Orange-footed Scrubfowl)
  5. Brown Quail
  6. Plumed Whistling Duck
  7. Wandering Whistling Duck
  8. Black Swan
  9. Maned Duck (Australian Wood Duck)
  10. Mallard
  11. Pacific Black Duck
  12. Chestnut Teal
  13. Hardhead
  14. Wedge-tailed Shearwater
  15. Australasian Grebe
  16. Great Crested Grebe
  17. Black-necked Stork
  18. Australian White Ibis
  19. Royal Spoonbill
  20. Striated Heron
  21. Cattle Egret
  22. Great Egret
  23. White-faced Heron
  24. Little Egret
  25. Pacific Reef Heron (Eastern Reef Egret)
  26. Great Frigatebird
  27. Australian Pelican
  28. Australasian Gannet
  29. Little Pied Cormorant
  30. Little Black Cormorant
  31. Great Cormorant
  32. Darter
  33. Nankeen Kestrel
  34. Brown Falcon
  35. Peregrine Falcon
  36. Osprey
  37. Black-breasted Buzzard
  38. Black-shouldered Kite
  39. Black Kite
  40. Whistling Kite
  41. White-bellied Sea-Eagle
  42. Collared Sparrowhawk
  43. Wedge-tailed Eagle
  44. Australian Bustard
  45. Buff-banded Rail
  46. Purple Swamphen
  47. Dusky Moorhen
  48. Eurasian Coot
  49. Bush Stone-curlew
  50. Beach Stone-curlew
  51. Pied Oystercatcher
  52. Black-winged Stilt
  53. Masked Lapwing
  54. Pacific Golden Plover
  55. Red-capped Plover
  56. Lesser Sand Plover
  57. Greater Sand Plover
  58. Black-fronted Dotterel
  59. Latham's Snipe
  60. Black-tailed Godwit
  61. Bar-tailed Godwit
  62. Whimbrel
  63. Eastern Curlew
  64. Common Greenshank
  65. Grey-tailed Tattler
  66. Great Knot
  67. Red-necked Stint
  68. Sharp-tailed Sandpiper
  69. Silver Gull
  70. Caspian Tern
  71. Swift Tern (Crested Tern)
  72. Roseate Tern
  73. Common Tern
  74. Little Tern
  75. Common Pigeon (Rock Pigeon)
  76. White-headed Pigeon
  77. Spotted Dove
  78. Brown Cuckoo-Dove
  79. Emerald Dove
  80. Crested Pigeon
  81. Diamond Dove
  82. Peaceful Dove
  83. Bar-shouldered Dove
  84. Wompoo Fruit Dove
  85. Superb Fruit Dove
  86. Rose-crowned Fruit Dove (heard only)
  87. Pied Imperial Pigeon
  88. Topknot Pigeon
  89. Red-tailed Black-Cockatoo
  90. Galah
  91. Sulphur-Crested Cockatoo
  92. Cockatiel
  93. Rainbow Lorikeet
  94. Australian Ringneck (Western Ringneck, lumped)
  95. Crimson Rosella
  96. White-cheeked Rosella (Pale-headed Rosella)
  97. Australian King Parrot
  98. Red-winged Parrot
  99. Double-eyed Fig Parrot
  100. Pheasant Coucal
  101. Common Koel
  102. Channel-billed Cuckoo
  103. Fan-tailed Cuckoo
  104. Oriental Cuckoo
  105. Lesser Sooty Owl (heard only)
  106. Morepork (Southern Boobook) (heard only)
  107. White-rumped Swiftlet
  108. Oriental Dollarbird
  109. Buff-breasted Paradise Kingfisher
  110. Laughing Kookaburra
  111. Blue-winged Kookaburra
  112. Forest Kingfisher
  113. Sacred Kingfisher
  114. Azure Kingfisher
  115. Little Kingfisher
  116. Rainbow Bee-Eater
  117. Green Catbird (Spotted Catbird, lumped)
  118. Tooth-billed Bowerbird
  119. Western Bowerbird
  120. White-throated Treecreeper
  121. Lovely Fairywren
  122. Variegated Fairywren
  123. Superb Fairywren
  124. Splendid Fairywren
  125. Red-backed Fairywren
  126. Southern Emu-wren
  127. Macleay's Honeyeater
  128. Bridled Honeyeater
  129. Varied Honeyeater
  130. Yellow Honeyeater
  131. White-plumed Honeyeater
  132. Graceful Honeyeater
  133. Yellow-spotted Honeyeater
  134. Lewin's Honeyeater
  135. Noisy Miner
  136. Yellow-throated Miner
  137. Blue-faced Honeyeater
  138. Little Friarbird
  139. Helmeted Friarbird
  140. Silver-crowned Friarbird
  141. Noisy Friarbird
  142. Little Wattlebird
  143. Red Wattlebird
  144. Brown Honeyeater
  145. New Holland Honeyeater
  146. White-cheeked Honeyeater
  147. Tawny-crowned Honeyeater
  148. Brown-backed Honeyeater
  149. Eastern Spinebill
  150. Dusky Myzomela (Honeyeater)
  151. Scarlet Myzomela (Honeyeater) (heard only)
  152. Red-browed Pardalote
  153. Striated Pardalote
  154. White-browed Scrubwren
  155. Yellow-throated Scrubwren
  156. Large-billed Scrubwren
  157. Weebill
  158. Brown Gerygone
  159. Large-billed Gerygone
  160. Fairy Gerygone
  161. Chestnut-rumped Thornbill
  162. Buff-rumped Thornbill
  163. Yellow-rumped Thornbill
  164. Yellow Thornbill
  165. Grey-crowned Babbler
  166. Chowchilla
  167. Eastern Whipbird
  168. Yellow-breasted Boatbill
  169. Black Butcherbird
  170. Grey Butcherbird
  171. Pied Butcherbird
  172. Australian Magpie
  173. Pied Currawong
  174. White-breasted Woodswallow
  175. Black-faced Cuckooshrike
  176. Barred Cuckooshrike
  177. White-bellied Cuckooshrike
  178. Varied Triller
  179. Australian Golden Whistler
  180. Rufous Whistler
  181. Australasian Figbird
  182. Olive-backed Oriole
  183. Green Oriole (Yellow Oriole)
  184. Bower's Shrikethrush
  185. Little Shrikethrush
  186. Grey Shrikethrush
  187. Spangled Drongo
  188. Willie Wagtail
  189. Grey Fantail
  190. Rufous Fantail
  191. Black-faced Monarch
  192. Spectacled Monarch
  193. Pied Monarch
  194. Magpielark
  195. Shining Flycatcher
  196. Torresian Crow
  197. Australian Raven
  198. Apostlebird
  199. Victoria's Riflebird
  200. Grey-headed Robin
  201. Pale-yellow Robin
  202. Red-capped Robin
  203. White-backed Swallow
  204. Welcome Swallow
  205. Tree Martin
  206. Tawny Grassbird
  207. Silvereye
  208. Metallic Starling
  209. Common Myna
  210. Mistletoebird
  211. Olive-backed Sunbird (Yellow-bellied Sunbird)
  212. House Sparrow
  213. Red-browed Finch
  214. Crimson Finch
  215. Zebra Finch
  216. Blue-faced Parrot-Finch
  217. Scaly-breasted Munia (Nutmeg Mannikin)
  218. Chestnut-breasted Munia (Mannikin)
  219. Australian Pipit

Possible, but ID not confident

  1. Straw-necked Ibis
  2. Grey Teal
  3. Grey Goshawk
  4. Grey Falcon
  5. Western Gerygone
  6. Banded Honeyeater
(What's with all the grey mystery birds? haha)

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1.25.2007

Fear of Music

Thought I'd dedicate a post to the classic Talking Heads album Fear of Music. I did one of these long reviews for Yankee Hotel Foxtrot about six months ago and promised that I'd make it a regular feature. Turns out, not so much, hah. But that doesn't mean it's too late to start making it regular! Or, at the very least, fit in a new installment to the 'series'.



Before I dive into Fear of Music, I'll establish my history with Talking Heads. So after my senior year of high school, I headed to party central at Salt Lake City to attend the Nationals debate tournament. I'd been told that paradoxically, Nationals was the most chill and laid-back debate tournament that I'd ever attend, and surprisingly that truly was the case. All of us had unbelievable amounts of free time to spend exploring the amazing attractions of...Salt Lake City. Oh.

Well, I have fond memories of watching Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban four times in two days at a mall located a good 30 minutes walk away, just because I had nothing better to do. I've mentioned it before, but Ed talking us out of renting Segways is a great regret in my lifetime thus far. I also recall seeing Who Framed Roger Rabbit in the hotel room, watching debate rounds in the absolutely surreal environs of the Mormon tabernacle, the ridiculous yet fascinating Mormon history museums, and many other things but we're getting really off track here, aren't we.

Somehow, a group of us ended up a record store in the mall, it was either Tower Records or Virgin Records or something, one of those big chains that we don't have in my area. Anyways, they were having this sale where you could get three CDs out of a set selection for a total of $10 or something amazing like that. OMG SALE. So I ended up picking up Talking Heads - Talking Heads 77, Wilco - Summerteeth, and Built to Spill - Ancient Melodies of the Future. The latter was without a doubt the weakest record of the three, but I think it was the one I was most pleased about grabbing at the time. Man, my tastes in high school. What was I thinking. I passed up on Live at Leeds for that hipster-lite garbage.



Anyways, I didn't particularly like Talking Heads 77 at the time. The production is so flat, I could listen through the record without getting hooked by any of the melodies, just because the production is so dull. I listened to it a number of times, because I really wanted to like it, but just couldn't find the spark. It had some interesting melodies, but that was about it.

Fast-forward one year. The summer after my freshman year, I decided that I really wanted to get into film. So I subscribed to Netflix, just for the summer, and filled my queue with critical favorites and stone-cold classics. I made up for the short time by ripping everything onto my computer and sending back the discs the next day, ending up with dozens upon dozens of movies stashed on my hard drive. Netflix recommended Stop Making Sense to me, Berardinelli loved it too, and I could see some potential for Talking Heads to work themselves more into my life, so I zipped it to the top of the queue for investigation.



The attempt at becoming an overstuffed, pretentious, scholarly film critic didn't quite work out, I guess I'm just not the type, but I did get to watch some incredible films, with Stop Making Sense being one of the best. It's not just footage of the band playing live, it's an actual film, and if you look at the details it's one of the most immaculately-produced films that I know. Unless you confine your musical tastes solely to Baroque harpsichord music, Tuvan throat-singing, or some other extreme and hardcore niche, I don't think there's any way you could not enjoy Stop Making Sense, I practically guarantee that you will be converted into a Talking Heads appreciator, at the very least. I myself got turned into a fanatic, and have been working my way through the Talking Heads discography since then with great zeal.

I fortuitously began with their debut, so it made since to logically progress on to More Songs About Buildings and Food. The production immediately blew me away, but I felt like the songwriting was substantially weaker, which in my book is even more important (Shaw 389*). Over time, I've grown to love MSABaF (what a beautiful acronym!) but at the time I was a little disappointed, and delayed my advancement towards Fear of Music.



What a mistake. Fear of Music completely blew me away on the first listen, and by the time I'd gotten through the album four more times, it was completely apparent to me that this was one of the best albums I'd ever heard. Brilliantly written, produced, executed, and everything. Thematically too, the thing is brilliant, and Starostin's review sums it up nicely:
This is clearly a concept album, and not only that - it's a real concept album, which is very unusual, since most 'concept albums' are in fact pseudo-concept albums, whose main purpose is to leave the listener behind gaping at what the possible 'concept' could really be (think Sgt Pepper, eh?). The concept that lies behind all these songs is somewhat similar to the concept of Dark Side Of The Moon: fear and insecurity, madness and desperation at the sight of everything that's actually mentioned in these songs: their titles speak for themselves - 'Paper', 'Cities', 'Mind', 'Heaven', 'Animals', 'Air', 'Drugs', 'Electric Guitar'... Somebody at the Prindle site suggested that the key to understanding the record is its title: substitute 'music' from the title and put in most of these individual song titles, and you get exactly that same message that Mr Byrne wanted to communicate us. I really couldn't agree more about that.
That sums up my thoughts on the album quite well. Byrne's nervous energy used to just be a quirky character of the Heads, but here it's harnessed to perfectly convey the dark paranoia and insanity of the album. The Prindle commenter's analysis is spot-on, and thinking of each track as conveying the eponymous phobia makes the record that much more brilliant. Fear of Cities, Fear of Paper, Fear of Life During Wartime, it all fits perfectly. Well, except for Fear of I Zimbra perhaps. But even that song is reeling of madness, with its nonsensical verses and complex polyrhythms. And since we're starting to talk about songs, let's go track by track again:



  1. I Zimbra - The Opening Statement, and a great one, it really sets the tone for what's to come. I thought this was an amazing track on the first few listens, but after a while you kinda figure out that it's not too deep of a track. Really, it's a bunch of people shouting nonsense words over some drums, there isn't a whole lot of room for emotional complexity or subtlety there or anything. But it sure sounds cool as hell.
  2. Mind - that slinky guitar line in the opening gives me the creeps every time, and totally makes the song for me, along with the loud and distorted solo later on. The rest of the song isn't particularly special for me, the chorus is sort of nice, but otherwise it sounds like something that could've fit on MSABaF (still a beautiful acronym).
  3. Paper - the guitars on this song are just...plain...ridiculous. This is the shortest song on the album, but it really packs a wallop. The interlocking guitar lines inject so much energy into this thing, I get these mental images of paper flying everywhere and office drones flying through office hallways like in those time-lapse videos, and there's paper everywhere, and oh man, it's just a nightmare! Completely, completely incredible song.
  4. Cities - the single repeated piano chord in the verse is what makes this song for me musically, it's the lone source of clarity within the chaotic noise created by the staccato guitars and Byrne's clipped delivery. Otherwise, the song seems a little overrated to me, though it's still great. By the way, what's up with the line, "Did I forget to mention, forget to mention Memphis? Home of Elvis, and the Ancient Greeks!" Am I totally mistaken on this, or was Memphis an ancient Egyptian city? I don't recall the Greeks ever being involved with Memphis, Egypt, or at least as much as they were with Alexandria. I could be off base here, but that was just my thought. Historically accurate or not, it's my favorite line in the song.
  5. Life During Wartime - I think 'Cities' is a little overrated, but I think 'Life During Wartime' is way more overrated. Nearly every review of this album mentions this song as the centerpiece of Fear of Music; it's the brilliantly manic song that seems so spiffy and glam on the outside before further investigation reveals its dark thematic undercurrents. I don't buy it. To me, it's just a standard pop song that only stands out because of its sequencing within the album, after all the chaos of 'Paper' and 'Cities'. I think that if this song had been put on a poppier, lightweight album such as Speaking in Tongues, nobody would really give it a whole lot of significant praise, because I think it's just a decent song that's especially well-framed by its context within Fear of Music. However, I do think it's a necessary lightweight break to set the stage for...
  6. Memories Can't Wait - ...the song that defines this record for me. The first time I heard it, I sat stunned and just stared at the wall or something, I don't even know what. The ominous walls of sound, the huge reverb on everything, it's the darkest atmosphere you can find on the record. The final minute, with Byrne just wailing into the abyss, clutches at my soul every time, and to me it's just one of the most affecting pieces of rock music.
  7. Air - you really need this break after all the emotional drama in 'Memories Can't Wait'. While you're coming down though, you probably won't notice how lightweight and innocent this song, but in a sort of forgettable way, unfortunately. For some reason, it sort of reminds me of Pixies, though I hate making huge comparative leaps like that because I know they won't make sense to anyone else.
  8. Heaven - I kind of prefer the version of this on Stop Making Sense, maybe only because it was the first version I heard. But I don't really like the piano on this album version, it adds an additional layer of complexity that I don't feel this simple little song needs, and it drags down a lot of the drama and power that this song could have potentially had, were it kept sparse and simple.
  9. Animals - just plain bizarre and strange, but that's part of its charm. The completely deranged closing is hilarious and brilliant.
  10. Electric Guitar - far and away my least favorite song on this album, and actually the only song here that I can't say I like. Everything else, relatively weak or not within the rest of the album, is still great compared to the rest of the rock music wasteland. There's too many strange noises, there's not enough structure to help them make sense, the melody's hook is too dull, and I just don't like this song, really.
  11. Drugs - The slow, atmospheric closer. I really think this is a beautiful song, and possibly the album's most underrated track (Starostin had the nerve to list it as his only disliked track, how is that even possible when 'Electric Guitar' is on this album?!). The award could also goto 'Paper', but in any case, this was the right way to close the album. A rousing crowd-pleaser would have clearly violated the moods built within Fear of Music, and nothing else could have worked other than this sort of contemplative, ambient stuff. It's a beautiful closer to an incredible album.
And that's Fear of Music. The album's concept provides a cohesive framework to interpret each song, and the songs not only deliver on this concept, but stand on their own as well-constructed pieces as well. Musically as well as thematically, it's gotta be one of the indisputable classics of the rock canon. I know that most people prefer Remain in Light, and I just don't see it. Maybe I'll touch on that later. Or, in a more likely scenario, not. To me anyways, Fear of Music is a towering achievement, and is one of the best albums in my collection. Generally I don't like using 'best', I prefer to use 'favorite' since it implies personal preference instead of objective quality, but in this case it's really both. Fear of Music is that good.



Some other things:



Sunday's conference championship playoff games were the last football games I'll get to watch until...September?! Sniff. Tear. More than anything, I'll miss football during my time abroad. Okay, maybe not more than anything, but it's up there. And it's true, I'll probably have to miss the Super Bowl. Because of the time zone differences, I'll probably be in class or something, and it's not like I could find a TV anyways, and even if I did, I doubt that any Australian stations would be showing American football. That's three successive obstacles impeding my wishes to view the champion of the National Football League being crowned, but oh well. I'm not too excited for this matchup anyways. Or maybe I'm just not excited since I know I won't be able to watch it. Chicken or the egg, you know. Speaking of which, isn't the answer clearly the egg? Some chicken-ancestor-species laid an egg which contained a series of genetic mutations which caused the offspring to be Pure Chicken, rather than chicken-ancestor-species? Isn't that how most species ultimately come about, evolutionarily? Somebody needs to refute me on this.



So the family jokingly went to Outback Steakhouse for dinner last night, as sort of a warmup for Australia. Ridiculous. I doubt they have Outback over there, but I wonder if they know about it. I also wondered whether there's some novelty American restaurant out there, themed on cowboys, tumbleweeds, and ghost towns, but then I realized that, hah, we have those in America already, don't we. So maybe Australia has those, and some self-mocking Australian restaurants. The novelty does go a bit overboard at Outback though, like how the restrooms are labeled Sheilas and Blokes? Wtf? On a random sidenote, I greatly appreciate restaurants that post the newspaper's sports section in front of the urinal in the men's restroom. I started thinking about what section of the newspaper would be in the women's restroom, before I realized how impractical that would probably be. Or is it? Do they have this? I wouldn't know, would I.

Also of note, I completely forgot that UNC and Clemson would be playing this evening, my last UNC game before I head abroad too! Fortunately, the game was playing on the big screen TV in Outback, causing the following conversation to occur over and over again:
Mom: I can't believe my only child is going to Australia in a few days!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Me: Lawson just hit his free throws, it's 69-51 Heels, 8:41 left in the half.
Dad: Good.
And that's my family in a nutshell.

I really like this year's UNC team. Normally, I'm a very atypical sports fanboy, in that I'm extremely critical of all my teams. I know them well enough to know their glaring weaknesses, and I absolutely pick them apart for it. I didn't like the 2005 championship team at all: not enough team play, streaky outside shooters fading down the tournament stretch, no shotblockers or solid interior defense, and I could go on. I was stunned when they won the whole thing, and none of my college friends could understand that. In hindsight, okay, that team was amazing. Sean May and Raymond Felton were consistently reliable, something we really don't have on this current team, and they had an incredible cast of supporting players to go along with them. But whatever, for some reason, I'm willing to look past this team's faults. I know those weaknesses are there, and I know what they are, but I don't care anymore, because I love the team's tremendous upside potential and where it could take them. I'm going to miss March Madness more than any other sporting event while I'm abroad, so for my bracket I'm just going to pencil in UNC ftw and leave it at that, so I don't get too emotionally invested in the thing.



And that's it for me. I doubt I'll be able to fit in another post before I head out, so the next time you hear from me, I'll probably be deep in the Australian rainforest! That hasn't sunk in for me yet, but I guess it will by then, just because hey, it's reality. So I hope everyone enjoys the rest of your January, and I'll post here eventually with info on how you can contact me. Warning: letters will probably be delivered by parrot. I can't wait.


Oh, and one last thing. So the best time for birding is the very early morning, as the birds begin to wake up from their long night's sleep. I don't mind these early wake-up calls because I'm just a morning person, but as if I needed an extra incentive to head outside so early, the sunrises are quite beautiful sometimes. I got this photo of the sun rising over Shelley Lake on Tuesday morning. And we'll leave things there, as a really really corny metaphor for my adventures to come.

Sunrise Over Shelley Lake




*Okay so I don't really have a book, sue me. But I wish I did. Alas. Perhaps I'll get started at some point.

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1.20.2007

Stepping Over the Edge



A lot of press has recently been given to the Zoological Society of London's new initiative, EDGE of Existence, with the EDGE acronym standing for Evolutionarily Distinct & Globally Endangered. The group plans to raise awareness for species that are, as the title suggests, extremely unique and extremely rare, and therefore worthy of preservation. Researchers from the ZSL plan to implement research and conservation actions for these species by working alongside local scientists in each species' range.

I think that's a great plan, certainly much more assertive and practical than the usual fundraising group whose money sits in a safe in some small office somewhere, as the website gets updated with more photos of cute baby pandas. No conservation effort can really succeed without cooperation at the local level, which a lot of these kinds of groups seem to forget. I applaud the ZSL and the EDGE initiative for taking the time to realize this, hopefully they'll be able to follow through with their proposals.

However, though the methodology seems correct, I have major issues with the focus of the group. On their page, they've listed their Top 100 Focus Species, along with some general info, and how intensive current conservation efforts are. The important thing to note is that all of these species are mammals. But why? Mammals are not any more evolutionarily distinct, endangered, or ecologically important as any other group of organisms, possibly even less so than others. The obvious answer is that mammals are cute and charismatic, and therefore will draw in a lot of money and attention.

In that sense, it's practical, but I also think it's sending the wrong message. What's the purpose of saving endangered species? There's a lot of aesthetic and moral reasons, but a lot of it also has to do with the potential ecological benefit of the species. Will an ecosystem be able to survive if this species is lost? If not, then it's obviously in our interests to save it from extinction. Here, EDGE has decided to focus on unique and rare mammals, and as I alluded to earlier, I don't think that's a particularly important group to focus on.



For example, let's look at Species #10, the Sumatran Rabbit. The thing hadn't been seen since the 1930's, and was presumed extinct until one was accidentally photographed in 1998. We still know almost nothing about the rabbit, only that it's nocturnal and extremely shy, hence why it's been so difficult to find.

Don't get me wrong, I think it'd be incredibly cool to save the Sumatran Rabbit. It looks pretty freaking awesome, and its behavior is probably quite fascinating. But I have to just say straight out that ecologically speaking, I really don't think it's an important species. It must be a rare species because it has extremely specialized habitat or dietary requirements which have been significantly altered in the past hundred years. If we lose the rabbit to extinction, what does the environment lose? A few plants may not get their seeds spread? A few predators may lose a handful of prey items? I feel like those are probably broad niches that will easily get taken up by a similar herbivore; I doubt that the Sumatran Rabbit was the sole prey item of some Indonesian hawk, for example. When a species is this rare and specialized, I really can't see the whole thing unraveling upon its loss.

Of course, this is all conjecture. Nobody can really quantitatively state how Important a species is, and what the costs of extinction are. But saying that the Sumatran Rabbit is more worthy of preservation than something totally uncharismatic such as, say, mycorrizhae fungi would be a difficult argument to make. But hey, it's a complicated subject, nobody really knows for sure what the importance of each species is. I'll make some concessions then: like I said earlier, beginning with a focus on mammals is practical since it provides cute mascots to front the organization and draw in the public's interest. Hopefully they'll move on to other organismal groups from there. In addition, I suppose that some conservation is better than none, so I'd certainly support EDGE over no conservation support at all. Plus, they seem to have a sound plan. That being said, I would still argue that if funds are to be allocated for conservation, there are better causes to be found. The ecological usefulness of these unique and rare mammals is fairly questionable, whereas the usefulness of preserving entire habitats through an organization such as The Nature Conservancy seems much more useful to me personally. That's just my opinion. So, props to EDGE for raising awareness on the issue and coming up with a sound gameplan, but I'd prefer to see a more ecologically sound list of target species before I throw all my support behind it.

By the way, up at the top of the post, that's a Red Panda. I don't usually think of things as 'cute' or 'adorable', but omgosh, I love Red Pandas. They're so cute!!!!!!!! Okay, you can kill me now.



Some other things that have caught my attention recently:



Gave a listen to the new Bloc Party album, A Weekend in the City. I hated it. Hated it. One of the worst albums I have ever heard, and that is not a joke. I was feeling generous and give it one star on my RYM page, just because I usually reserve the half-star rating for albums that are so terrible that they actually made me angry (i.e. Fiery Furnaces), and A Weekend in the City was not that offensive. It was just really, really inoffensive, and in the worst way possible.

Bloc Party were never my favorite band, but I didn't dislike them either. Their debut EP along with the Silent Alarm LP were filled with some really fun moments. Their brand of dance-rock was rooted in some angsty gut emotion, rich territory left un-mined by the totally mindless party fun of !!! or The Rapture. A Weekend in the City is a major stylistic change for the group, but they go in the totally wrong direction. Now, the dance-rock is left in the dust and the emotional drama becomes the band's primary calling card, and though the band bleeds sincerity, they just don't have the musical or poetic lyricism to pull it off effectively. Leadoff single 'I Still Remember' sounds like the most derivative and uninspired aspects of The Killers, Coldplay, or U2, and is now completely indistinguishable from hundreds of other Brit-rock bands. It's time to dig this band's grave, they've had their time in the critical spotlight, but that's pretty much over now. Goodbye Bloc Party, the music scene is a vicious one and has a short-term memory, you just didn't have what it takes to gain any staying power. I hope you enjoyed your time here while you could.



I saw a really pitiful number of new movies this year, so I tried to make amends by seeing two excellent movies last week, Children of Men, and Old Joy.

Children of Men is the new effort from director Alfonso Cuaron, previously known for his work on Y Tu Mama Tambien and, uh, Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban, hah. Before we move on, I just wanted to state that Azkaban is far and away the best film in the series (though I haven't taken the time to watch Goblet of Fire yet), and I don't regret watching it four times in two days during that Nationals debate trip to Salt Lake City. Hah, okay, maybe I do regret it, but not as much as I regret skipping out on a Segway rental at that mall. Ed, wherever you are these days, curse you for talking us out of it. Though we were all bored out of our freaking skulls (I mean, it was Salt Lake City after all), that wasn't a bad debate trip either, in hindsight.

Anyways, Children of Men takes place twenty years in the future, when the entire human race has suddenly become infertile for unknown reasons. The film isn't too concerned with the question of 'why'; a lot more of the focus lies on the 'what if' ramifications of such an event, and it's pretty terrifying stuff. The world has fallen into chaos and anarchy, and the few remaining strongholds of civilization take increasingly desperate measures to control the population. I won't say too much about the film, other than to state that it was consistently engrossing and brilliant, pretty much all the way through. Everything about the film worked: the writing, acting, production, pacing, and direction were all basically flawless, so all I can really say is that it was just an immaculately produced and substantive film, and I really couldn't have asked for more. The only real chink in its armor was the ending, which everyone seems to be swarming around as its only weakness. I'm glad that it was left open-ended, but I'm very unhappy with the way Clive Owen's character was dealt with, it seemed like such a cheap excuse for closure in that sense. But that's a minor argument, for the most part the strengths of the film more than made up for any weaknesses, and Children of Men was the best film I saw in 2006.



While I was in Boston, I got a quick text message from Mr. Behrend asking if I was interested in seeing this film Old Joy at the Colony Theatre that night. I figured that I would probably be in no emotional shape to see a film at that time, and responded thusly. It was only later when I thought, wait, Old Joy? Why I have never heard of this movie before? Probably because Berardinelli hasn't reviewed it, I realized, and since I agree with him on almost everything, and he hasn't reviewed this, it can't be good!

Then I did some quick research and realized that, wait, this might be the best movie ever. It got a lot of critical praise at Sundance, but more importantly, it stars Will Oldham, of all people? Yo La Tengo did the soundtrack? It has an 84 on Metacritic? The ingredients were in place for something special, so Mr. Behrend and I agreed to meet in a few days time to soak in the experience.

As I expected from the quick research on it, Old Joy is a very minimal and delibrately-paced film. Much of it is just composed of long shots of simple images: a sparrow perched on a branch, the lights of the city, trees zipping by the car window, clouds. All of this is used the frame the minimal story of two old friends going on a hike, and the ways the two have changed or stayed the same.

My main problem with Old Joy is that it's subtle, but too obviously so. That probably doesn't make any sense, so I'll try and explain. Before and after their hike, one of the characters rides in his car listening to Air America Radio, and it's really the only thing going on in the picture. It's just long shots of a person driving, and the only sound is that of the political debate on the radio. That's fine. The problem is that these radio dialogues are obviously connected with the primary themes of the film, and it's not really made to be subtle. We're supposed to notice. Every subtle detail in the film is supposed to carry Important Meanings, and I don't have a problem with that, the problem is that the filmmakers make these Important Meanings obvious, and the images lose their subtlety, and start coming across as preachy and ham-fisted. The magic of the film is in its subtlety, yet paradoxically the filmmakers have chosen to magnify its images to the point where it's no longer beautiful. Terrence Malick's work is an example of subtlety just for the sake of the beauty of subtlety, and though there is a message to his work as well, he doesn't force it upon the viewer.

I enjoyed Old Joy, there were some really beautiful and evocative moments, but it really wasn't as Important as it probably perceives itself to be. I wouldn't mind recommending it to people though, it really was quite a beautiful work. Plus, Will Oldham and Yo La Tengo still rock.



Meanwhile, I'm going to try and fit in a viewing of Pan's Labyrinth sometime this week. It has a 98 on Metacritic?! That makes it the 4th highest-rated film...of all time. Yeah, I need to see this. Possible report to come later. But then I get into conversations like this:

11:24:12 AM Roger: i think i'm just going to suck it up and go see it at some early showing on a weekday, alone
11:24:35 AM Roger: pretty sure i would kill the person next to me in terror if i saw it with other people
11:28:17 AM Keith: two people i know went to go see it, and they pretty much told me they were holding each other in fear the whole time
11:28:23 AM Keith: and then were kind of depressed after

Hah, that doesn't sound like a whole lot of fun. Well, better than just passively slouching in the seat and glancing at the watch, right? Any moving experience is better than none, right? I'm sure that I'll come out of Pan's Labyrinth completely shaken to the core, but glad that I'd seen it. I need that kind of gut check sometimes. Or, I'm just masochistic. Hah. The Australian Stinging Trees are calling to me...

YES COME HERE

Okay, and the last thing I want to note is that I've made some changes to the design of the site. For one, I've added 'Currently Listening' and 'Currently Reading' to the sidebar for no real reason, other than to just indulge my tastes. The bigger change is that I'm going to stop posting links in these posts. Funny, because that was the one condition I set for myself when I started posting about non-birding material on this blog: I was going to post links, in order to provide some inter-post consistency. But more importantly, I wanted to ground the blog and keep it from veering off into emo diary land. I don't feel like either goal has been successful or was even been necessary to begin with, so away it goes, it was clumsy to deal with anyways. In its place, I'm posting links onto my del.icio.us page, with the most recent bookmarks conveniently appearing in the sidebar to the right. The advantage here is that links will be constantly updating, so now if you're totally bored you don't have to rely on my procrastination-induced and/or slow-life post delays in order to waste time on the internet. I also figure that this will take less time and effort for me, which could be important once I get to Australia and have less of both on hand. We'll see how it works out.

One more week at home! It's probably time for me to tie up a lot of loose ends here, expect me to be pretty busy. We'll talk later. Though I'm sure I'll post about the conference championship games tomorrow, and possibly about Pan's Labyrinth, or other things, we'll see. Man, it's weird to close a blog post without links now, I guess I'll just stop here? Stop.

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1.14.2007

Can't Get That, I'm in a Zone Over Here

One of the best things about being home is the newfound ability to watch sports without any sort of academic distractions hanging over my head. I've tried multitasking at school before, and no luck. There is simply no way I can concentrate on words on the page when linebackers are blitzing untouched from the outside on a television screen within 50 feet of my head. I'm starting to think that it's actually physically impossible, like my retinas have field-goal-upright-shaped sports receptors, which activate a cascade of proteins which eventually shut down my cognitive brain functions, and there's nothing I can do about it. Here at home though, no distractions, and it's amazing. Actually, I just remembered that I have a 15 page report on the summer research that still needs writing, and of course there's the whole packing thing, but there's no urgency in either (yet), so I don't feel completely guilty about spending this entire weekend watching playoff games.



Indianapolis 15 @ Baltimore 6

Not a pretty game to watch, but sort of disturbingly engrossing at the same time. Outside of the state of Indiana, and Peyton Manning fanboys who bandwagon with winning teams, doesn't everyone enjoy watching this guy get picked apart by defenses flying all over the field? Bill Simmons' "Manning Face" is absolutely crucial towards my enjoyment of a Colts game, and we got to see plenty of it during this game.

In the end, the Colts move on to the AFC Championship, but I wonder why all the talk is centering upon how the defense 'saved' Manning. Is it really the Colts defense, or was it more like an incompetent Ravens offense? As good of a leader as he is, nobody can really argue that McNair is a great quarterback anymore, and he just doesn't have a supporting cast around him to make it work. I think that most defenses in the NFL could probably intercept McNair twice and not give up any touchdowns, the difference for the Ravens being that this time, the Ravens defense weren't able to get the offense good enough field position off turnovers, and on the rare occasion that it was given to them, some sort of McNair blunder or penalty would push them back.

So now, we get to watch Manning choke in one more round. I will be stunned if he ever wins a Super Bowl, which makes me laugh. Statistically, he's one of the greatest NFL quarterbacks of all time, but he just doesn't have the right attitude for a championship winner. I'm not picturing any sort of late-career Elway-like resurrection either. Can you picture Peyton as a grizzled old veteran, making tough throws when it counts, and running for the first down on aging legs when the pocket collapses? The answer is no, Peyton the grizzled veteran will sit in the pocket too long until he's swallowed up by the defensive line, or he'll lob passes to safeties sitting in coverage. You can just picture it. He's just that kind of quarterback, and that's greatly amusing to me.



Philadelphia 24 @ New Orleans 27

I still don't like Reggie Bush's play in the NFL. His contributions to this game will largely be remembered by that spectacular 20-yard gain where he completely reversed field, outrunning several Eagles along the way, and for the touchdown run where he got stuffed inside and somehow bounced it outside where he beat Dhani Jones to the pylon. The thing that both plays had in common was that Reggie almost got stuffed by going straight ahead, so he decided to try for the Big Play by heading across the field and turning the corner.

That is not how you play in the NFL. Just look at how Deuce McAllister played this game: he hit his holes hard, and drove through the initial contact, and fought for yardage. I would argue that at this point, Reggie Bush is playing like a coward. He's afraid of contact, he fights for yards with his fleet feet instead of with his considerable strength, and he doesn't have the patience to wait for his blocks to develop. The fact that he keeps making these huge plays is kind of cool I suppose, like we're supposed to be amazed by this kid's athletic ability and imagination, but they almost seem like accidents to me. And the fact that he keeps succeeding is only going to encourage him to do it more. How much longer can he keep this up? I remain unconvinced that Reggie Bush will make a consistent every-down back in the NFL, he just doesn't have the ability to run between the tackles like a traditional runningback. He either gets tackled for massive losses, which everyone seems to forget, or he madly dashes past confused defenders and gets praised as a genius on the scale of Leonardo DaVinci or Thomas Edison.

Great game though. Unless you live close to Philadelphia, you just had to root for the Saints on this one. They're definitely America's Team at this point. I have to say though: my favorite play of the game was early on, where Brees lobbed a soft toss to Bush in the flat, only for Bush to just..get...destroyed...by Sheldon Brown. That was the hardest hit I have ever witnessed live in a NFL game, it was incredible. I wish I was at a bar in Philly high-fiving everyone in sight, that was just the best hit. I'm glad that it's on Youtube already. I liked how they went to commercial by playing that 'Here Comes the Boom!' song, it made me lol. Also, why the hell did Andy Reid decide to punt on 4th-and-15 on the last drive? Sorry Andy, that false start did not also add 3 minutes on to the clock, it's just 5 yards, that's it. Stupid, just plain stupid. Not one of the better coaches in the NFL.



Seattle 24 @ Chicago 27

Of course, all the pregame talk centered on the inconsistent Rex Grossman, and which side of Mr. Grossman we'd see in this game. The last time we saw him, he had a quarterback rating of...0. 0. That is a zero. Not the letter 'o' which I believe comes between the excellent letters 'n' and 'p'. That is a 0. He completed more passes to the Packers defenders than he did to his own team. That is correct. Incompetence on a completely historic level. And wait, this team is in the playoffs?!

What most commentators seemed to forget was that we could get both sides of Grossman in a single game, like he's schizophrenic or something! Incredible! So yeah, he made some amazing throws, for example that excellent deep ball to Berrian on the touchdown, yet there were some inconceivable decisions made under pressure as well. This time then, his inconsistencies were intra-game, rather than inter-game. Amazing.

Oh, and once again we've got a close game decided by a late field goal. Shaping up to a be a good round of playoffs so far, I gotta say. Chicago deserved this one, their defense stepped up at just the right times.



New England 24 @ San Diego 21

I have no idea what's going on in that photo. I know it's Kevin Faulk celebrating his 2-pt conversion to tie the game, but what is everyone else doing there? I can't figure out what happened in this celebration at all, there's just too many possibilities, none of which seem conceivable at all. I may have nightmares about this photo, so I thought I'd share it with you all!

Anyways, New England did not deserve this win. Even my token Patriots-supporting friend agrees! The number of San Diego mistakes is just too long to have allowed the Chargers to pulled it out, through no real intervention on the Patriots' part. There's was Parker's bone-headed attempt to pick up and run with his own muffed punt, McCree's interception stripped away by Troy Brown, Rivers' soft lob intercepted by Colvin, and all the drops by those receivers. You can't win when you make those kind of mistakes, and the Patriots did just enough to capitalize off them.

Meanwhile, this Gostkowski character is a monster. Remember when he got drafted, and everyone was just like, wtfwtfwtf? Mel Kiper didn't even have the dude on his draft board of kickers or something! Of course, I laughed when one commentator said something to the effect of, "Well, let's see, Bill Belichick is probably the greatest genius operating in the NFL right now, and he's won three Super Bowls. How many Super Bowls has Mel Kiper won? Wait, zero? So maybe this Belichick guy knows what he's doing?" Apparently so, apparently so. I can't wait until Renaldo Balkman suddenly turns into Gilbert Arenas in five years, and starts dropping 35 on his hapless opponents on a nightly basis. If I were a Chargers fan right now though, I'd probably be all like

Let's get to a few links then:

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1.12.2007

Devil's Sink Hole

Hiked around 10 miles through Eno River State Park with Marissa and Meg yesterday, and had a total blast. The excursion's been in the planning stages for weeks now, but the weather foiled us last week, and so we scrambled to work out the details at the last minute for this week.

After some missed voicemails, late night emails, and early morning phone calls, the three of us finally managed to meet at Meg's amazing house on Thursday morning, ready to go. It was amusedly noted that her street number isn't located anywhere on the house, causing Marissa to drive by the window three times, completely confused and lost, before Meg and her sister finally took notice and reeled her in to the correct house. Just before we left for the Eno, someone stated that they were glad this hike was happening, because all of us were beginning to get a little bored at home. Laughing, I said that I was way, way past that stage already. Nothing like a good hike to bring me back to sanity.





We decided to try out the Cox Mountain Trail, a 4-mile loop through the heart of the park that climbed to the summit of the eponymous mountain, hopefully providing good panoramic views of the surrounding country. On the way to the trailhead, we crossed a nice suspension bridge spanning the Eno River, chuckling nervously as the bridge bounced and swayed, and somehow spotted a Great Blue Heron on the bank upriver as well. There was also a sign nailed up on one of the bridge supports, noting the level of the Eno after Hurricane Fran hit in 1996. The sign was probably a good 15 feet above the current level of the river, and taking into account the vast floodplain of the Eno, that must have been a massive flood. The frightening thing is, after witnessing the destruction Fran caused in the area, I wasn't really surprised at all. Later on in the day, all three of us reflected on the night Fran hit and its aftermath; it really was an experience that binded North Carolinians together. Everyone remembers where they were that night, and what they did to get through the week. I really can't fathom how the survivors of Katrina or Andrew must feel.

Anyways, we continued on the trail, and soon found ourselves laboring up the steep climbs of Cox Mountain. We paused about halfway up, to catch our breath, to soak up the great view, and to watch a Turkey Vulture soaring low over the trees. Soon, we began to notice other birds in the area too: I spotted a female Eastern Bluebird that unfortunately disappeared before Meg could locate it in the binoculars, and then we all got decent looks at a Yellow-bellied Sapsucker foraging on a tree downslope.



The rest of the climb was substantially easier, and the crest of the hill was relatively anticlimactic, with the view obscured by dense stands of trees, and so we continued down the other side. A beautiful creek flowed into the Eno on the other side of the mountain. Meg wondered aloud: If I was a salamander, which rock would I be hiding under? She carefully turned over a promising rock, and waited a few minutes for the sediment to settle, but no luck. We followed the river downstream for a while, noting that the puddles and rain pools had frozen over on the surface, a sight I'd forgotten about during this unusually mild winter. We also passed a maple marked by a beaver attack, some beautiful lichen growing on a tree, and a Wild Ginger plant with a sweet scent, before we paused to chuckle at a sign noting a Primitive Campsite ahead.

At this point, we unfolded the Trail Map to mark our progress along the loop, when I noticed something curious on the edge of the map. About three miles upstream from our stopping point, an arrow marked the location of Devil's Sink Hole. No trails led to the sinkhole. No description of the sinkhole appeared in any of the park brochures. None of us had any idea what it could possibly be. So of course, we had to investigate, and the only way we could do that would be bushwhacking along the riverbank for miles past the trail's end. Of course, the three of us were completely stoked for this adventure.



Where the trail veered away from the river and back up Cox Mountain, the three of us exchanged glances, drew in some breath, and charged into the brush, Meg blazing the trail in front. And so we trekked on through the abundant reeds and rushes along the riverbank for several miles, before pausing a half mile before the sink hole, to watch a kettle of vultures soaring above a powerline cut. We watched in fascination as the kettle of vultures grew, and suddenly I noticed that among the Turkey Vultures were a few of the locally uncommon Black Vulture. Eventually, there were more Black than Turkey Vultures, and they all circled low over the cut before soaring upstream, perhaps to the Devil's Sink Hole, we joked.

From here, the bank suddenly grew extremely steep in places, forcing us to either to climb over rock cliff faces (my stubborn, macho approach), or to go around the steep spurs by climbing the adjacent ridges (probably the smarter approach, haha). At the final bend in the river before the Devil's Sink Hole, seeing some intimidating steep sections ahead, we paused on a rockfall for lunch; I tore into a Chick-fil-a Chicken Biscuit with gusto as more vultures circled overhead, and I sighted a small Winter Wren flitting around the opposite shore.



The Devil's Sink Hole threw some more obstacles in our way as we approached, as we carefully negotiated some more steep banks, with one massive fallen log on a steep embankment causing particularly awkward problems for us. A loud slap on the water was heard, and Meg and I agreed that it may have been a beaver, which was pretty cool. Once we finally got past those rocky sections, we found a creek that had to be forded, and spent a few moments trying to find a way to cross. Marissa and I ended up leaping onto a fallen log in the middle of the creek and using that as a springboard to reach the opposite shore, while Meg managed to tightrope on a long log spanning the creek. We fought our way through more dense stands of reeds, before houses began to appear on the other shore, indicating that we had probably reached the edge of the park boundaries.

I pulled out the GPS unit, which is supposed to be used just for driving purposes, to check on our exact location. I was half expecting for it to give me driving directions to the nearest Chinese restaurant or something, but it was more reserved than that, and its map showed us that we'd passed the Devil's Sink Hole by several hundred yards. The three of us then began our return journey, looking for any sign of the sink hole. Sadly we found none, this stretch of the Eno looked like any other, and we continued the arduous trek back to Marissa's car, stationed at the park headquarters four miles away. In the woods around the supposed sink hole, we found a nice Eastern Phoebe, and then all three of us got spectacular looks at another sapsucker.



Before we joined up with the Cox Mountain trail again, there was another small creek to ford, which we had no trouble with on the journey up. This time, as I stepped onto the bank of the creek's edge, my feet suddenly slid on the slippery mud, and I fell on my side right into the creek! Panicking, I quickly got myself up and tried to get up the opposite bank...but oh man, it was completely muddy too, and I slid back into the creek! I tried to get back up to where Marissa and Meg were laughing, only to find that the entire bank I'd just fallen down was muddy. So I tried once again to get back up the opposite bank, but this entire shore was muddy too! So basically I was stuck in this u-shaped muddy hole, with my feet's skidmarks on either side, as I stood laughing, hopelessly stuck between unscalable riverbanks, as the creek flowed around my cold toes. Meg, ever kind and helpful, eventually lent me a hand as I tried to find enough momentum to push myself up the bank, getting myself extremely muddy in the process. Marissa had slipped earlier, and the two of us basically looked like we'd taken a nap in the swamp and sunk a foot or two as we slept, haha. Alas, Meg escaped our fate, the lucky girl. Clearly, she knew what she was doing.

Finally, we all got back to the park headquarters, and decided to ask the park rangers about the Devil's Sink Hole. Two of them had no answer. The third ranger we came across told us, "Oh yeah, you won't be able to see anything. It's just this deep spot in the river. I forget the history behind it, and why it's called that, but yeah it's just a deep part of the river, you really can't see it." Oh well, the day's adventures were worthwhile on their own qualities, we all agreed. I told Marissa that it certainly beat sitting at the computer all day checking Facebook, a comment that struck both of us a little too close to home, haha, so once again Facebook-less Meg came out with a clean record, clearly she knows what she's doing. We drove back to Meg's house, rocking The White Album all the way down, before we said our goodbyes, and I drove back home through early rush hour traffic, grabbing a Blackberry Carolina Concrete from the esteemed Goodberry's just before reaching home, where I took a quick shower, and collapsed on the nearest sofa, falling into a deep nap, awoken only by the tantalizing smells of Mongolian Beef emerging from the kitchen. What a great adventure.



What a week, really. I had an incredible time this past weekend in Boston with Joanna, the memories of which I'll have to hold onto for the next four months as I head into the Australian rainforest. The fact that I'm going abroad really hasn't sunk in yet, and probably won't until a week into the program when it's too late to start freaking out, haha, so for now, I'm just blissfully wrapping up the last of my preparations and beginning to pack. I'll enjoy the experience I'm sure, but for now I'm enjoying all the sweet tea that North Carolina has to offer, as well as any inkling of civilized society that I can encounter.


Links gathered before the great adventures:
  • The British mail system delivered a letter with no address, only a vague map. Actually, it turns out that others have done the same, on purpose even.
  • A new restaurant has opened in Beijing, in which you sit in total darkness while eating your food, the idea being that the loss of your visual sense will elevate your other senses, including taste. The waiters and waitresses walk around with night vision goggles to see what they're doing. Amazing.
  • There's a handful of underwater hotels already, but now Dubai is building an underwater luxury hotel. I would love to visit Dubai at some point, it just seems like such an absurdly ridiculous spot at the moment.
  • The New Year's fireworks in Taipei were quite spectacular.
  • After his infamous World Cup headbutt, Zinedine Zidane retired, but he's not totally done with soccer, here's some footage of him playing a pickup game with friends, and absolutely schooling everyone. Fantastic.
  • True Hoop does some research on how NBA stars may influence baby names. How common of a name is Shaquille these days, for example?
  • A quick and easy way to screw up any webpage, and make things spin. Bizarre, it's like surfing the internet on acid!
  • Find out how to beat that arcade game where you pick things up with that giant claw.
  • And finally, in the spirit of all this linking, Jason Kottke lists his favorite links of 2006. If you're bored, this should occupy you for a while.

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1.03.2007

Mallory Above the Second Step

On New Year's Eve, growing a little tired of the superficial celebrations, and actually a little tired of meaningless college football bowl games as well, I stumbled upon a Discovery Channel documentary following an expedition on their ascent of Mt. Everest. I sat and watched the documentary until there was only 15 minutes left in the year of 2006, before I finally caved in to tradition and the expected festivities.



What is it about Everest? I did the same thing once last fall; I spent an entire night ignoring my chemistry homework, and just did research on Mt. Everest, intrigued by the details of the two primary climbing routes, the obstacles and treacheries along both paths, the mystery of Mallory and Irvine's disappearance and the extent of their progress beforehand, the successful methods of Tenzing and Hillary on the first ascent, the disaster of 1996 and the debate that raged in its wake, the final discovery of Mallory's body and the clues it yielded, and the indomitable mountain itself, its power and beauty. What a joy it must be, to stand upon the roof of the world, to be on the highest point of the planet, after battling with the elements and some of the harshest conditions on Earth, for days on end, and then to finally succeed at the top of the world. And what agony it must be, to be turned away just a hundred meters from the summit by life-threatening weather, to be so close to a Singular Life-Defining Achievement, only to watch it fade away just when it was within reach. To lose fingers, toes, or even limbs from frostbite on Everest: is it worth it? Is an ascent of the mountain a vain act of personal glory, or a true triumph of the human body and spirit? Or somehow both?



These days, even relative novices can hire experienced guides to take them up Everest. And who can say that they aren't at least somewhat tempted by the thought?

I don't really know where I'm going with this. I just feel like the mountain reveals something very profound and powerful about human nature, and the whole thing is really fascinating to me. The Wikipedia article on Mallory has a few nice quotes.
Mallory's daughter has always said that Mallory carried a photograph of his wife on his person with the intention of leaving it on the summit. This photo was not found on Mallory's body. Given the excellent preservation of the body and its garments, this points to the possibility that he may have reached the summit and deposited the photo there [therefore meaning that Mallory was the first to ever ascend Mount Everest].
Chris Bonington, the widely respected British Himalayan mountaineer, summed up the view of many mountaineers all over the world:
If we accept the fact that [Mallory and Irvine] were above the Second Step, they would have seemed to be incredibly close to the summit of Everest and I think at that stage something takes hold of most climbers... And I think therefore taking all those circumstances in view... I think it is quite conceivable that they did go for the summit... I certainly would love to think that they actually reached the summit of Everest. I think it is a lovely thought and I think it is something, you know, gut emotion, yes I would love them to have got there. Whether they did or not, I think that is something one just cannot know.
I'm normally a terribly bitter and pragmatic pessimist, but something inside me wants to see Mallory at the summit of Everest as well. As Bonington said, it's a nice thought.



On an entirely separate tangent (as if tangents can actually be completely separate, haha, oh my goodness did I really just point that out), the Teenage Fanclub song 'Mount Everest' is so good, among my favorite songs. The long coda with the distorted electric guitar and hammered dulcimer (maybe?) just gets me every time. Maybe that's trivializing this whole thing, haha.


Some links:
  • Video of a space shuttle launch from the shuttle's point of view, with the booster rockets and the camera then falling back into the ocean. A really beautiful video.
  • The 2007 edition of Software for Starving Students has been released. It's free, and useful!
  • Also free are a pair of flip-flops! I have no idea if this will actually work, but it's worth a shot. Edit: Doesn't work anymore, sadly. If your order did go through, check your Order Status, and you'll find that you need to call Customer Service, where you'll get an apology and a canceled order. If you try and order now, shipping isn't free anymore.
  • Learn the correct (or at least most efficient) way to wrap headphone cords.
  • Some guys with way too much free time find awesome ways to throw ping pong balls into glasses, and also quarters into shot glasses. I'm not sure if I want to give these guys a high five, or if I want to punch them in the face.
  • US Airways now has an Arizona Cardinals plane! I don't even know what to say to this, it's just lolololol.
  • Kissing Suzy Kolber has an amazing post on Mike Shanahan's Masterplan in the aftermath of their unfathomable loss to the 49ers.
  • Finally, take a survey to find what your brain's gender is. I'm pretty much an average male, as it turns out. I aced the opening line test, which was pretty cool. On the other hand, some of these are a little more questionable, like the thumb test. Also, I scored a 1 out of 20 on that empathy questionnaire (hahaha), but then I was way above average on the face recognition test, which is supposed to mean that I empathize well. So how much empathy do I really have, Mr./Ms. Test? Anyways, it's a fun way to waste time, and time is what I'm sure everyone has plenty of this winter break. Hope it's going well so far!

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